By Rose Murray Brown MW Published in The Scotsman 28 August 2021
A dozen seriously good whites and roses from around the world for sipping and savouring as summer draws to a close:
Limari, Chile: THE SOCIETY’S CHILEAN LIMARI CHARDONNAY 2020 Concha y Toro (13.5%) ***STAR VALUE***
Loved this taut linear unoaked Chardonnay, zippy clean, bright citric fruit with natural acidity and creamy texture from stirring of the lees – the dead yeasts after fermentation. Limari region north of Santiago is now ‘the’ place for Chardonnay in Chile. A cracking buy.
Mosel, Germany: PIESPORTER GOLDTROPFCHEN RIESLING KABINETT 2017 Schloss Lieser (8%)
From Thomas Haag, one of the new stars of the Mosel. This delightful Riesling epitomises a summery white with its floral nose, chiselled linear acidity, delicate sweet flowery notes, low alcohol and fine long dry finish; such fine tightrope walk between acidity and sweetness. Perfect for a lazy summer evening in the hammock.
Pafos, Cyprus: ALINA XYNISTERI 2019 Vouni Panayia (12.5%) ***STAR BUY***
£18 www.cavaspiliadis.uk; www.aspris.co.uk
Sensational new find from 100 year old bushvines grown 1000m up in the Troodos mountains. The Kyriakides family have crafted a thrilling wine with ripe figgy nose, complex rich fruits, salty minerality and mouthwatering finish from Cyprus’ renowned Xynisteri grape.
Western Cape, South Africa: QUEEN BEE VIOGNIER 2020 Journey’s End (12.5%)
Unoaked Viognier made by the Gabb family from vineyards in Bree river area, harvested early to retain good firm acid. Starts quite plump with apricot and honey, sweet sour flavours but finishes crisp and taut.
Loire, France: ANJOU BLANC SEC 2017 Thibaud Boudignon (12.5%) ***STAR BUY***
Exquisite Chenin Blanc from an exciting new young grower, Thibaud Boudignon, who farms just 3.5 hectares in Anjou and Savennieres. Pure lime and pear fruit, gently honeyed, light waxy texture, deep rich fruit, thrilling acid line with saline length – a grower to watch.
Rheinhessen, Germany: RIESLING ORGANIC TROCKEN 2019 Dreissigacker (12%)
£16.99 www.luvians.com; www.valvonacrolla.co.uk; www.fountainhallwines.co.uk; www.thebeerhive.co.uk
Excellent quality for introductory level classic dry Riesling. Vibrant, textured, limey-fruited Riesling with plenty of vibrant acidity. ‘Non-interventionist’ winemaker Jochen Dreissigacker has 45 hectares in fertile rolling hills around Bechtheim, with half planted to Riesling.
Swartland, South Africa: CHENIN BLANC 2019 Wolf & Woman (13.5%)
Winemaker Jolandie Fouche is clearly a name to watch. Seriously good example of old-vine Cape Chenin with nectarine, honey, slightly spicy palate with bone dry length. No new oak, just hugely concentrated, enchanting subtle and elegant. Very distinctive unusual ‘one-eyed’ label (pictured above).
Rheingau, Germany: WEISSBURGUNDER 2020 Toni Jost (13%)
There is just 0.75 hectares of Pinot Blanc in Rheingau, here made by Mittelrhein-based winemaker Toni Jost into an exquisite bright rounded floral quince flavoured summer white with mid-palate red apple sweetness and bone dry finish; delicious with fresh river fish.
Loire, France: MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE, CLOS DES ALLEES 2018 Domaine Luneau-Papin (12.5%)
£16 L’Art du Vin www.aduv.co.uk
Nineth generation Pierre-Marie Luneau has revitalised his family domaine. Local grape Melon de Bourgogne has been grown on Clos des Allees two hectare schist and gneiss plot since C18 near Le Landreau in the famous Muscadet Sevre et Maine subregion. Old vines (45 year old) and minimal intervention give vivid pure bright fruit and lovely salinity.
Languedoc, France: PRESTIGE CUVEE ROSE 2020 Domaine Montrose (12.5%) ***STAR VALUE***
So pale this is barely rose; but this Grenache, Vermentino, Syrah blend from volcanic terraces in Cotes de Thongue is very elegant. Made by an old family run domaine in Pezenas near Montpellier. Crisp zippy, raspberry fruits with salty edge; sealed with classy glass stopper.
Maule, Chile: CUATRO VIENTOS ROSE 2020 Vina Aromo (13%)
An unexpected bargain amidst Tim Atkin MW’s top Chilean picks which won his best value rose award. From the huge Maule region, this 100% unoaked Syrah rose is ripe, refreshing with good dry finish made by winemaker Jimena Egana.
Beira Interior, Portugal: BEYRA ROSE 2020 Rui Madeira (13%)
Another delightful bargain from The Wine Society – very pale on-trend rose from high altitude vineyards (700m) in northeast Portugal. Rosehip aromas, cranberry fruits with a hint of salt to finish; a very versatile rose to sip in the hammock or accompany barbeques.
Join Rose’s Croatia & Slovenia online wine tasting on Friday 10 September 6.30pm www.rosemurraybrown.com